ẨM THỰC MƯỜNG TRONG “BÁCH KHOA THƯ DU LỊCH XỨ MƯỜNG”

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Tác giả: Quang Tùng Tạ, Văn Thông Tạ

Ngôn ngữ: vie

Ký hiệu phân loại:

Thông tin xuất bản: Tạp chí Nghiên cứu Dân tộc, 2020

Mô tả vật lý: tr.123-130

Bộ sưu tập: Báo, Tạp chí

ID: 329927

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Bài viết trình bày các tri thức về ẩm thực Mường trong công trình nghiên cứu tương lai “Bách khoa thư du lịch xứ Mường”. Trong đó, tác giả tập trung vào các nội dung chính như: (1) Xác định cácđầu mục về ẩm thực Mường trong “Bách khoa thư du lịch xứ Mường” gồm phân loại các đầu mục theocông dụng (đồ ăn
thức uống)
phân loại theo phương thức định danh (căn cứ vào nguyên liệu, cách chếbiến, đặc tính sản phẩm
gia vị...). (2) Xác định thông tin trong các mục về ẩm thực Mường. Đồng thời, bàiviết đưa ra một số điểm thảo luận sau:Thứ nhất, thế nào là “ẩm thực trong văn hóa” và “văn hóa ẩm thực”? Ẩm thực là một từ Hán Việt, “ẩm”nghĩa là “uống”,“thực” nghĩa là “ăn”, nghĩa cả từ là “ăn - uống”nói chung. Đây vốn là một “động từ”,nhưng có một từ đồng âm với nó là “danh từ” (chỉ “món thức để ăn uống”, cũng như từ thịt của tiếng Việt).Ẩm thực Mường, theo tiếng Mường là “ẩm thức Mường”. Ẩm thực không chỉ là những “món thức để ănuống”, nên khi nói về những “món thức để ăn uống”, phải miêu tả nguyên liệu, nghề, làng nghề, cách làm,hương vị
dạng thể, cách thưởng thức, quan hệ với các món thức ẩm thực khác, vị trí và tác động trong vănhóa
“Văn hóa ẩm thực”: Ẩm thực là một thành tố văn hóa, có liên quan đến tập tục của một cộng đồng.Theo nghĩa hẹp, văn hóa ẩm thực là những món thức, nguyên liệu và công cụ chế biến, sản phẩm... Hiểutheo nghĩa rộng, văn hóa ẩm thực là một phần trong phức thể các đặc trưng về vật chất và tinh thần, là trithức dân gian, tình cảm, khẩu vị, lối bày biện, cách thưởng thức và ứng xử, giao tiếp của một cộng đồngqua việc “ăn uống”.Như vậy, khi tìm hiểu văn hóa ẩm thực phải xem xét ở hai phương diện: Văn hoá vật chất (đồ ăn, thứcuống...) và văn hoá tinh thần (quy trình làm ra đồ ăn và thức uống, nghệ thuật chế biến
khẩu vị, cách ứngxử, giao tiếp trong ăn uống
ý nghĩa, biểu tượng, tâm linh...).Thứ hai, các tri thức về ẩm thực Mường có vị trí như thế nào trong “Bách khoa thư du lịch xứ Mường”?Bách khoa thư này là một cẩm nang cung cấp các tri thức về những chuyến đi, điểm đến, cảnh vật và đápứng những quan tâm khác nữa trong những chuyến du lịch của du khách tới xứ Mường.Căn cứ theo mục đích chuyến đi (du khách muốn biết hay trải nghiệm điều gì đó ở xứ lạ), có thể thấy ẩmthực trong văn hóa Mường là một trong những mối quan tâm số một của du khách trong du lịch văn hóa.Việc tìm hiểu ẩm thực giúp hiểu sâu sắc hơn ý nghĩa văn hóa hàm chứa trong “ẩm thực”, hiểu đượcphần nào cách ứng xử với tự nhiên và xã hội của người Mường. Đây cũng là một điểm hấp dẫn trong dulịch ở xứ Mường.This article presents the knowledge about Muong cuisine in the future work: Tourism encyclopedia of Muong ethnic. Therein, the author focuses on some main contents: (1) Identify entries aboutMuong cuisine in the “Tourism encyclopedia of Muong ethnic”: Classify items according to their use(food, drink)
classify items according to methods of identification (based on raw materials, processingmethods, product characteristics, spices...). (2) Identify information in the entries about Muong cuisine. Atthe same time, the article also give some discussions as following:Firstly, what is “cuisine in culture” and “culinary culture”? Cuisine is a Sino-Vietnamese word, meaning“eating - drinking” in general. This is originally a “verb”, but has a homophone for it, “noun” (meaning“food to eat”). Muong cuisine, in Muong language is not only “food to eat”, so when talking about “food toeat”, it is necessary to describe ingredients, craft, craft villages, ways of making, and flavors
forms, waysof enjoying, the relationship with other dishes, impacts in culture
“Culinary culture”: Cuisine is a culturalelement, related to the customs of a community. In a narrow sense, culinary culture are food recipes,ingredients and processing tools, products... In a broad sense, culinary culture is part of a complex ofmaterial and spiritual characteristics. Culinary culture is folk knowledge, emotions, tastes, presentations,enjoyments and behaviors, and communications of a community through “eating”.Thus, when learning about culinary culture, it is necessary to consider two aspects: material culture(food
drink...) and spiritual culture (process of making food and drink, art of cooking, processing
taste,behavior, communication in eating and drinking
meanings, symbols, spirituality...).Secondly, what is the position of Muong culinary knowledge in the “Tourism encyclopedia of Muongethnic”? This encyclopedia is a handbook that provides knowledge about trips, destinations, landscapesand meets other interests in tourists’ travels to Muong.Based on the purposes of trips (visitors want to know or experience something new), it can be seen thatcuisine in Muong culture is one of the number one concerns of tourists in cultural tourism.The study of cuisine helps to understand more deeply the cultural meaning contained in “cuisine”,understand somewhat how to behave with nature and understand society of the Muong. This is also anattractive point in travelling in Muong areas.

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