NGHIÊN CỨU KHẢO SÁT HIỆN TƯỢNG QUĂN MÉP CỦA VẢI DỆT KIM SINGLE JERSEY

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Tác giả: Diệu Hương Chu, Thị Tươi Lưu, Thị Thúy Ngọc Nguyễn

Ngôn ngữ: Vie

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Thông tin xuất bản: Tạp chí Khoa học và Công nghệ - Đại học Công nghiệp Hà Nội , 2020

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Bộ sưu tập: Metadata

ID: 409774

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Vải dệt kim một mặt phải được sử dụng rộng rãi do điều kiện sản xuất đơn giản và năng suấtcao. Vải nhẹ và mềm thích hợp cho nhiều nhóm trang phục như đồ mặc lót, quần áo thể thao, áolen... Tuy nhiên, vải một mặt phải có hiện tượng quăn mép. Đây là một nhược điểm của vảisingle gây khó khăn cho các công đoạn cắt, may hay liên kết chi tiết bán thành phẩm trên cácmáy chuyên dùng. Hiện tượng quăn mép của vải single chịu ảnh hưởng từ nhiều yếu tố như độđàn hồi của sợi dệt, mật độ vòng sợi... Trong bài báo này, chúng tôi nghiên cứu ảnh hưởng củavị trí khảo sát tới hiện tượng quăn mép theo hướng ngang và theo hướng dọc của vải dệt kimsingle. Ba mẫu vải single dệt từ sợi single CVC (60 % cotton/40% polyester) với các mật độ ngangvà dọc khác nhau, tương ứng là 142, 138 và 136 vòng sợi/100mm theo hướng ngang, và 193,187 và 186 vòng sợi/100mm theo hướng dọc. Độ quăn mép của vải được đo ở các vị trí khác nhautrên mép vải. Kết quả cho thấy theo cả hai hướng dọc và ngang, độ quăn mép của vải luôn tăngdần khi dịch chuyển vào các vị trí ở giữa của mép vải. Với các mẫu single trong nghiên cứu này,độ quăn mép theo hướng ngang có xu hướng lớn hơn độ quăn mép theo hướng dọc với cùngchiều dài khảo sát., Tóm tắt tiếng anh, Single jersey fabric commonly used for garment because of high production and simpletechnological conditions. The fabrics are light and soft, that make them suitable for differentgarment group such as underwears, T-shirts, sportwears,... However, the single knittedfabrics will curl on the edges. The curling is one of the disadvantages of single-knitted fabrics. Iteffects on cutting, sewing, and linking processes. This phenomena of single fabric influencedby different factor such as elasticity yarn, loop density... In this paper, we have investigatedan influence of investigated position on horizontal and vertical curling behaviour of singlejersey weft knitted fabrics. Three CVC (60% cotton, 40 % polyester) single jersey fabric havebeen knitted with different loop density, which are 142, 138 và 136 stitches/100mm by waledirection and 193, 187, 186 stitches/100mm by course direction. Measurement of the fabriccurling have been carried out at different position at the fabric edge in order to study thecurling behaviour on depending position and the fabric length. The results shown that fabriccurling increased in mouving to the middle position of the fabric edges. Futhermore, thecurling tented more important in the course direction than it was in the wale direction.

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