Assessing climbing-specific strength: The impact of body position and elbow flexion on reliability and predictive validity.

• Tác giả: V Andersen, K Langer, A H Saeterbakken, N Stien
• Ngôn ngữ: eng
• Thông tin xuất bản: England : Journal of sports sciences , 2025
• Bộ sưu tập: NCBI
• ID: 714691

Tóm tắt

 Finger strength is a key determinant of climbing performance, yet the optimal method for reliable assessment remains unsettled. This study evaluated the reliability and validity of finger strength assessments across four positions: seated and standing with bent and straight arms. Twenty-six intermediate-to-elite climbers completed a climbing-specific isometric pull-down test on two occasions, 48-96 hours apart. Average and peak force outputs from the mean of three attempts and the best single attempt were analyzed. Tests performed with bent arms showed slightly higher between-sessions reliability (intraclass correlation coefficient [ICC] = 0.983-0.991) compared to straight arms (ICC = 0.978-0.989). Seated positions yielded better within-session reliability (CV = 1.81-2.99%
  ICC = 0.985-0.990) than standing (CV = 2.33-3.11%
  ICC = 0.951-0.979). Between-sessions coefficient of variation (CV) ranged from 2.04% to 3.37%. Relative finger strength correlated more strongly with climbing performance (